If you purchased an object intended for glazing, most if not all imperfections should be removed. When sanding a piece of bisqueware you will create dust which requires the use of a NIOSH approved particulate respirator. Use a wet sanding block or wet/dry sandpaper to avoid creating dust. If you have a clay object you made yourself, fire it in the kiln to make it hard but porous before you glaze. The exact temperature to fire your object depends on its size and type of clay, so check with the manufacturer of your clay, or if the manufacturer isn’t available to you, ask the advice of an experienced potter. [2] X Expert Source Natasha Dikareva, MFACeramics & Sculpting Instructor Expert Interview. 5 May 2020. Wear disposable gloves while handling the ceramic object to keep it as clean as possible. [3] X Expert Source Deanna RanlettPottery & Ceramics Professional Expert Interview. 12 November 2021.
Remember, you should reduce the amount of dirt or oil on the ceramic by wearing disposable gloves whenever you handle it.
Crayons may be rubbed on the object to create a wax coating, but there is a possibility that the colors in the crayon wax end up on your pottery. If you are glazing pottery with children, you may find it easier to skip this step and hot glue the children’s glazed objects to a clay disc immediately before firing, in order to catch dripping glaze. [7] X Research source You may also simply sponge off any excess glaze from your piece or mask areas with tape or contact paper.
While full instructions are not included here due to the variations between different glaze mixes, you will need water, a long stirring spoon, and a hydrometer to test the density, or “specific gravity”, of the glaze. [9] X Research source It also helps to have a drill mixer (used for mixing paint), a rubber spatula, two containers (sized for the final quantity of glaze), a scale, and a fine mesh sieve 60-120 mesh, depending on your recipe.
While full instructions are not included here due to the variations between different glaze mixes, you will need water, a long stirring spoon, and a hydrometer to test the density, or “specific gravity”, of the glaze. [9] X Research source It also helps to have a drill mixer (used for mixing paint), a rubber spatula, two containers (sized for the final quantity of glaze), a scale, and a fine mesh sieve 60-120 mesh, depending on your recipe.
Keep in mind the final color of each glaze when you choose your design. Intentional drips are often used to great effect by ceramic artists, but be aware that thick drips may alter the texture of the pottery and could cause improper firing.
Do not use the knife or other object for any food-related purpose, after using it to glaze or create artwork.
You may also brush on the overglaze. Do this so the surface is completely covered with a thin layer. It is better to allow the ceramic to dry and apply a second thin layer than to apply too much glaze in one go.
Wipe off glaze from these surfaces after each application of glaze, before it dries. If your glaze seems runny or drips heavily, you may wish to leave the bottom 1/4inch (6mm) or more of the object’s sides unglazed. Even many professional artists do this.
If you live in the United States, this listing of kilns may be helpful, although there are many more not listed.
Do not use two glazes that require different firing temperatures on the same object, or you will risk breaking the pottery. If you are dropping off your ceramic object at a studio for the employees to fire later, include a note detailing the firing temperature. Do not attach this note directly to the glazed object.
Note that your wax should burn off in the kiln. If there is any residue from your resist materials that means you used something that did not incinerate at 1000 degrees Fahrenheit, and you will need to find a different resist material next time.
