Remember, you’re placing both ends into fittings with collars, which will hold the PVC pipes’ ends firmly in place. So your measurements will equal the length between the collars of your 2 fittings.
Using a guide will also prevent you from cutting into your workstation and causing unintentional scratches and marks. [3] X Research source
If you have a cable saw, PVC pipe cutter, or electric miter saw handy, these would work as well. PVC pipe cutters are made especially for this material and are particularly helpful. They create clean, easy cuts, sometimes without burrs. However, they only cut pipes up to 2 inches (5. 1 cm) in thickness. [5] X Research source
You can also use an emery cloth to smooth out your PVC pipe. [7] X Research source Leave burrs in place, and your PVC pipe may not form a strong connection. Burrs could also cause liquid-flow issues.
All of your segments should fit snugly into the pipe-fitting collars. If you test things out first, you’ll know that everything fits together before you glue.
Especially when dealing with curves in your plumbing (elbow pipes), this step will be crucial. Forget it, and you could refasten your pipes in the wrong direction or start a job that can’t be finished.
In most areas, inspectors require that primer be purple. That way, it’s clearly visible.
Before you begin priming, have your cement prepped and ready to go. You have about 10 seconds to apply your cement.
Again, move on to the next step immediately. PVC pipe cement will dry in just ~30 seconds. Make sure that your pipe is in place when it does.
Hold the pipe in place for ~30 seconds. This way, when you turn on your water, you’ll know that your pipe set completely and correctly!
