Bananas can take up to a year to produce fruit, so it’s important to know what range of temperatures it will experience throughout the year. If the temperature falls below 14ºC (57ºF), your banana plants will simply stop growing. They die if they are exposed to frost (<0ºC or <30ºF).

To test drainage, dig a hole 0. 3m (1 ft. ) deep, fill with water, and allow to drain. Refill once empty, then measure how much water is left after 1 hour. Approximately 7-15 cm water drainage per hour is ideal for banana plants. A raised garden bed or adding 20% perlite to the soil assists drainage. [3] X Research source [4] X Research source This is especially important if you are using a banana plant that does not yet have leaves, or had the leaves removed for shipping. Leaves help evaporate excess water. [5] X Research source

Each banana plant requires a hole at least 30cm(1ft. ) wide and 30cm (1ft. ) deep. Larger holes should be used in areas of high wind (but will require more soil). Keep banana plants at least 4. 5m(15ft) from trees and shrubs (not other banana plants) with large root systems that may compete with the bananas’ water. [6] X Research source Multiple banana plants help each other maintain beneficial humidity and temperature levels, as long as they are planted at the correct distance. If you can, plant several plants in a clump with 2–3m(6. 5–10ft. ) between each one, or a large number of banana plants 3–5m(10–16ft. ) from each other. [7] X Research source Dwarf varieties require less space.

You’ll need a large planting container sufficient for its adult size, or be willing to transplant the banana into a larger pot whenever necessary. Always use a pot with a drainage hole in a location where water can drain well. Consider a dwarf variety if you don’t have sufficient indoor space. Use half the amount of fertilizer when growing a plant indoors, or cease entirely if you don’t have room for a larger plant. (This may be suitable for a houseplant you don’t intend to harvest fruit from. )

The best suckers to use are 1. 8-2. 1m (6–7ft) in height and have thin, sword-shaped leaves, although smaller suckers should work well if the mother plant is healthy. [8] X Research source Big, round leaves are a sign that the sucker is trying to make up for a lack of adequate nutrition from the mother plant. [9] X Research source If the sucker is still attached to a mother plant, remove it by cutting forcefully downward with a clean shovel. Include a significant portion of the underground base (corm) and its attached roots. [10] X Research source A rhizome (corm) without notable suckers can be chopped into pieces. Each piece with a bud (proto-sucker) will grow into a banana plant, but this will take longer than using a sucker.

The best suckers to use are 1. 8-2. 1m (6–7ft) in height and have thin, sword-shaped leaves, although smaller suckers should work well if the mother plant is healthy. [8] X Research source Big, round leaves are a sign that the sucker is trying to make up for a lack of adequate nutrition from the mother plant. [9] X Research source If the sucker is still attached to a mother plant, remove it by cutting forcefully downward with a clean shovel. Include a significant portion of the underground base (corm) and its attached roots. [10] X Research source A rhizome (corm) without notable suckers can be chopped into pieces. Each piece with a bud (proto-sucker) will grow into a banana plant, but this will take longer than using a sucker.

The best suckers to use are 1. 8-2. 1m (6–7ft) in height and have thin, sword-shaped leaves, although smaller suckers should work well if the mother plant is healthy. [8] X Research source Big, round leaves are a sign that the sucker is trying to make up for a lack of adequate nutrition from the mother plant. [9] X Research source If the sucker is still attached to a mother plant, remove it by cutting forcefully downward with a clean shovel. Include a significant portion of the underground base (corm) and its attached roots. [10] X Research source A rhizome (corm) without notable suckers can be chopped into pieces. Each piece with a bud (proto-sucker) will grow into a banana plant, but this will take longer than using a sucker.

The best suckers to use are 1. 8-2. 1m (6–7ft) in height and have thin, sword-shaped leaves, although smaller suckers should work well if the mother plant is healthy. [8] X Research source Big, round leaves are a sign that the sucker is trying to make up for a lack of adequate nutrition from the mother plant. [9] X Research source If the sucker is still attached to a mother plant, remove it by cutting forcefully downward with a clean shovel. Include a significant portion of the underground base (corm) and its attached roots. [10] X Research source A rhizome (corm) without notable suckers can be chopped into pieces. Each piece with a bud (proto-sucker) will grow into a banana plant, but this will take longer than using a sucker.

The best suckers to use are 1. 8-2. 1m (6–7ft) in height and have thin, sword-shaped leaves, although smaller suckers should work well if the mother plant is healthy. [8] X Research source Big, round leaves are a sign that the sucker is trying to make up for a lack of adequate nutrition from the mother plant. [9] X Research source If the sucker is still attached to a mother plant, remove it by cutting forcefully downward with a clean shovel. Include a significant portion of the underground base (corm) and its attached roots. [10] X Research source A rhizome (corm) without notable suckers can be chopped into pieces. Each piece with a bud (proto-sucker) will grow into a banana plant, but this will take longer than using a sucker.

If using a sucker, remove all but a few centimeters (1–2 inches) of the roots. This will limit the chance of disease. You can also remove any leaves in excess of five and/or cut the top of the plant off with a slanting cut to increase the amount of sunlight that warms the soil for root growth and rot prevention. [11] X Research source

If planting indoors, instead use a planting pot this size or larger.

Do not use potting soil, nor your regular garden soil unless you are sure it is suitable. Soil mixes intended for cacti can produce good results,[12] X Research source or ask other growers of the same banana variety. The ideal soil acidity for bananas is between pH 5. 5 and 7. Acidity pH 7. 5 or higher can kill the plant. [13] X Research source

Young plants require 0. 1–0. 2kg (0. 25–0. 5lbs) each month, rising to 0. 7–0. 9kg (1. 5–2 lbs) for an adult plant. Increase gradually as your plant grows. If the temperature falls below 14ºC(57ºF) or if the banana plant hasn’t grown since last month, skip the fertilization. [14] X Research source Fertilizers are usually labeled with three numbers (N-P-K) representing the amount of Nitrogen, Phosphorus (Potash), and Potassium. Bananas require very high amounts of Potassium, but the other nutrients are important as well. You can use a balanced fertilizer (three numbers roughly equal) or a fertilizer that addresses deficiencies in your soil. [15] X Research source Do not use manure produced in the last few weeks, as the heat it releases while decomposing can damage the plant. [16] X Research source

In warm growing weather without rain, you may need to water your plant daily, but only if the top 1. 5–3 cm (0. 5–1 in. ) of soil is dry. Test with your finger before watering. Reduce the amount of water per session if the plant is sitting in water for long periods. (That can cause root rot). In cooler temperatures when the banana is barely growing, you may only need to water once every week or two. Remember to check soil moisture. Leaves help evaporate excess moisture, so be careful not to soak (just moisten) a young plant that has not yet grown leaves. [18] X Research source Water the ring of fertilizer as well to help it soak into the soil.

Check the mulch regularly and remove any weeds that are growing. These can compete with the banana plant.

Signs of nitrogen (N) deficiency: very small or pale green leaves; reddish pink leaf sheathes; poor growth rate; small fruit bunches. [19] X Research source Signs of potassium (K) deficiency: rapid appearance of orange/yellow color on leaves followed by leaf death; small or broken leaves; delayed flowering; small fruit bunches. [20] X Research source Examples of major plant diseases include: Bacterial Wilt/Moko Disease; Panama Disease/Fusarium Wilt; Banana Bunchy Top; Blackhead/Root Rot/Toppling Disease; and Black Leaf Streak. Examples of major plant pests include: Corn Weevil; Banana Aphid; Mealy Bugs. Fruit pests include: Flower Thrips; Red Rust Thrips; and Scarring Weevil.

Cut all but one sucker off at ground level and cover the exposed plant with soil. Repeat with a deeper cut if they grow back. The surviving sucker is called the follower and will replace the mother plant after it dies. Exceptionally healthy plants can support two followers.

Wire/Rope and Bottle Method: Cut off the bottom of a plastic bottle. Insert a very long wire/very strong twine through the mouth and bottom of the bottle. Crunch the bottle to make it bendable and soft. Prop up the banana stem on the bottle, and use the wire to pull the stem slightly more upright. Tie the write to a strong support. Single Bamboo Method: Use a 3m (10’) long bamboo pole or other strong, durable material. Cut a piece of Y-shaped wood 10cm (4") thick and 60cm (2’) wide. Let the stem rest on the middle of the “Y” and push the bamboo upwards a little bit so the stem is wedged into the “Y” tightly. Bury the other end of the bamboo (the base) deeply into the ground. Tamp very firmly. Double Bamboo Method: Use two 3m (10’) long bamboo poles. On one end of the poles, tie them together with strong wire 30 cm (1’) from the end. Open up the poles to form a letter “X”. Let the stem rest on the short end, push upwards a little bit to create pressure, and bury the other ends of both poles. Tamp very firmly.

Cover the stem with a blanket or soil. If there is no frost and the plant is still small, this may be adequate protection until the temperature rises high enough for it to grow again. Store the plant inside. Uprooting the entire plant, removing the leaves, and store in moist sand in a heated indoor area. Do not water or fertilize; the plant will go dormant until you’re ready to plant it outside again. Grow the plant inside. This will require a large pot with drainage hole. If you don’t want to grow your banana too big for your pot, you may need to cease or reduce the fertilizer treatments. Salvage pieces to plant later. If frost or cold has killed most of your plant, chances are the suckers and corm at the base are still usable. Cut these away from the dead portion and store them in their own small pots to plant outside later.

Never remove the leaves around the flower, as they protect it from the sun. [22] X Research source Do not confuse this with the Banana Bunchy Top Virus. See Tips below.

The male portion of the flower is called the “banana heart”. Some varieties of banana plants produce edible banana flowers that are popular in Southeast Asian cuisine, but not all are suitable for consumption. Most flowers will fall off and die before harvest. Use a stick to prop up the plant if the bunches are dragging it down.

Tie the nylon or plastic sack with soft twine several inches from the first hand.

Cut a notch halfway into the tree, opposite the side of the bunch. Carefully let the tree bend and cut off the bunch. The fruit will ripen quickly once harvested, so you may want to pick some well in advance of harvesting so you don’t end up with excess fruit that will go to waste.

Remember to leave one sucker to replace the now-dying mother plant.