If possible, consider planting the tree at the top of a slight slope, as well. Doing so can help drain excess water and prevent the roots from getting soggy. Never plant chestnuts at the bottom of a slope.
Chestnut trees thrive in deep, sandy loam soils. Soils that contain rocks and gravel are also acceptable. Avoid heavy clay soils. The only way a chestnut tree can survive in a clay soil is if it is planted at the top of a downward slope. Ideally, the soil should have a pH between 4. 5 and 6. 5. Avoid limestone soils, since the pH is often too alkaline for a chestnut tree to survive.
If you want to rush large harvests of chestnuts, you can plant multiple chestnut trees at half that distance, roughly 20 feet (6 m) apart, so that they start to crowd each other out and pollinate quicker.
Plant two different chestnut varieties to promote cross-pollination. Check around with your neighbors. If a next-door neighbor has a chestnut tree growing in their yard, that might be sufficient for yours.
Chestnut seeds are actually just normal, untreated chestnuts. Seed nuts need to undergo a period of chilling to germinate properly. Storing them in the refrigerator mimics the natural process while protecting them against the harsh freezes and animals found outdoors. For best results, place the chestnuts in a vegetable crisper to prevent them from accidentally freezing. The chestnuts should be stored in the refrigerator for several months, from harvest to planting.
The best time to plant is early spring, usually around mid-March. You can sow the seed as soon as the soil is soft and warm enough to work in.
Poke a few drainage holes in the bottom of a half-gallon (2 L) cardboard milk carton. Cut the top off the carton, as well. Fill the carton with soil-free potting mix. The ideal growing medium should contain large quantities of organic fibrous material. Mixes that contain composted bark are especially good. After planting the seed, place the container in a sunny windowsill. Water the potting medium when it feels dry. A sturdy seedling should grow from the nut within two or three months. Note that seeds germinated indoors should be treated as seedlings and, as such, transplanted outdoors during the spring according to the guidelines marked in the “Starting from Seedlings” section.
Since most chestnuts will have sprouted before you plant them, make sure that the sprout is face-down when you plant the nut. If the seed has not sprouted yet, place it in the soil with the flat side of the seed facing downward.
Make sure that the top of the wire cage extends above the ground 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm). This will give the seedling a chance to grow and establish itself before the screen has to be removed. Note that you do not need to cover the seed if you are starting it indoors.
The hole should be at least two times as large as the root ball of the seedling you want to plant. It is also recommended that you aerate the sides of the planting hole with a rake, garden fork, hand-held cultivator, or hand-held plow before placing the root ball inside.
Many animals will be attracted to the scent of the nutshell and may dig up you seedling trees looking for that shell. Removing the shell makes your tree less of a target.
Pack the soil in with your hands and feet to further secure the tree. Water the soil well after you plant the tree. Water helps the soil settle and removes any air pockets that were otherwise trapped inside the packed growing medium.
Sink the hardware cloth 2 to 4 inches (4 to 10 cm) into the ground. Keep at least 18 inches (46 cm) above the ground. If deer are a problem, this cylinder of hardware cloth may need to extend as high as 4 to 5 feet (1. 2 to 1. 5 m).
After the first month or two, you should still make sure that the tree receives 1 inch (2. 5 cm) of water each week during the growing season. You do not need to water the tree when it loses its leaves and becomes dormant.
The best way to do this is by applying organic mulch around the tree. Mulch also helps the soil retain moisture. An herbicide can be used to get rid of weeds, as well, but you need to protect the trunk of the tree before you apply an herbicide to the area.
Do not fertilize the seedling when you plant it. Doing so will encourage leaf production, but the tree needs to focus its efforts on root production during this time. Use a standard fertilizer containing balanced amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (usually labeled as 10-10-10 fertilizer).
Pick a sturdy central, upright stem. This will be the tree’s central leader. Pinch back, bend down, or cut off any other stems that compete with your chosen leader. Major scaffold limbs growing off your main stem should be spaced 1 foot (0. 30 m) (30. 5 cm) apart along the central leader, growing in a spiral rotation. After the tree establishes itself, trim the limbs so that the lowest still gives you enough room to mow under the tree. When the central leader reaches 6 to 8 feet (1. 8 to 2. 4 m) high, cut it down so that it is as short as a side branch. This will allow the tree to grow wider instead of higher.
The fungus gathers around the trunk of the tree, fixating mostly on areas that are cracked or wounded. It eventually develops into a large canker. When the canker wraps all the way around the tree, the tree itself will die. You will need to completely remove the tree and plant any future chestnut trees in a different location. Chestnut blight is almost impossible to treat once it infects a tree, even if you use a strong fungicide. Prevention is your best option. Plant blight-resistant chestnut tree varieties and make sure that the roots are never allowed to sit in soggy, overly-wet conditions.
Adult weevils lay eggs in developing nuts. When the eggs hatch, the larvae consumes the meat inside of the nut. Get rid of the weevils before they become a problem by spraying the tree with an insecticide once nut burs begin to develop. Alternatively, you can lay a sheet beneath the tree and give the branches a sturdy shake. Most of the weevils should fall off. You can then collect them in the sheet and dispose of it. You need to kill the adult weevils before they can lay eggs. There is no way to remove the pests once they find their way into the nuts.
Chinese chestnut trees usually produce nuts after five years. American chestnut trees usually produce nuts after eight years.
You can usually harvest the nuts by simply collecting them off the ground as they fall. If animals tend to grab the fallen nuts before you can, another option is to cut off the burs before the nuts drop. Carefully cut the unopened burs during early to mid October and keep them in a root cellar or similarly cool place. Once the burs naturally open, you can collect the nuts. Wear heavy rubber gloves when handling the nuts and burs to prevent yourself from getting scratched or pricked.
Chestnuts have a high starch content and do not store as well or as long as many other nuts. After cooking the chestnuts, you can only store them in the refrigerator for three or four days. If placed in an airtight container and stored in the freezer, however, cooked chestnuts remain edible for up to nine months.
Place the chestnuts in a plastic bag filled with slightly damp sphagnum moss, peat moss, or sawdust. Seal the bag with a twist-tie and store it in your refrigerator.
